Alaska 2023: Day 10 & 11 Denali

Day 10 began early at the dock in Whittier, Alaska. It was cloudy with a light drizzle as we boarded our transport bus to the Anchorage Airport to collect our luggage.

The road leaving Whittier is routed through a 2.5 mile tunnel. This tunnel is shared by both cars and train, and it is one lane. Automated traffic controls dictate who has the right of way and there could be a thirty minute wait to pass through the tunnel. Along the way we saw a caribou or two, but the hour long trip was more or less uneventful.

We collected our bags at the airport and picked up our rental…a 2023 GMC Yukon Denali! How appropriate! It was huge! There was plenty of room for the five of us and all our baggage. Of course, Phil’s backpack with his laptop decided it wanted to hang out in the Anchorage Airport instead, but it was quickly located by airport staff and retrieved when we returned the next afternoon. (Yes, apparently our group had a lot of baggage issues this trip).

We stopped to eat at the Moose’s Tooth in Anchorage. They mostly serve pizza, but they did have a few other items on the menu. The nachos plate included pulled pork and was enormous. I totally loved it!

Well-fed and comfortable in our gas-guzzling SUV, we hit the road north. We arrived at the Denali Park Visitors Center just after they closed at six o-clock. One of the rangers was restocking the flyers on the outside of the building and gave us some guidance on where we might see our ultimate destination–DENALI.

Inside Denali National Park and Wilderness Preserve, we followed the Park Road to about mile marked thirteen. There is a pullout with the graphic diagram shown in the picture above left. Obviously, the clouds were NOT cooperating and we were not able to see Denali. Disappointed, we crawled back into our tank of an SUV and went in search of our hotel.

The Denali Bluffs Hotel is just a few miles down the road from the entrance to the Denali National Park. It sits on a bluff and has great views looking out toward the park. Because it was getting late, we ate dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, the Mountaineer Grill and Bar. Parking is a bit limited and might require a bit of a hike if you end up in the lower lot. The mosquito sign at left really is posted in the parking lot, and the mosquitos are huge! We encountered a few in our short stay; I can’t imagine how bad they would be later in the summer.

The forecast for the aurora borealis was supposed to be favorable during our stay. Unfortunately, it doesn’t really get dark at night where we were during this time of the year. The sun goes down around 11:00 p.m., but it stayed twilight until sunrise at 4:00 a.m. No northern lights for us!

We started Thursday morning with a trip to the Denali Visitor Center…during their operating hours! They had two short movies that we watched before we went to see the sled dogs. Because Denali is a wilderness preserve and accessibility to remote areas can be difficult by motor vehicle, the park uses sled dogs for transportation in the winter. They breed, raise and train around thirty dogs at the park. We were able to see the dogs and pet them before watching a demonstration of a team in action.

On our way back to the parking lot from the sled dog compound, we encountered several moose!

With our time in Alaska running out, we headed back to Anchorage. We once again encountered light rain and clouds as we left the national park and entered the Denali State Park. As we drove through the Willow, Alaska area, we encountered what remains of the 2015 Sockeye Fire which burned 7220 acres and destroyed 55 homes. Our last opportunity to see Denali was made at the South View Point in the state park. As much as I’d like to believe we saw the great mountain, I don’t think we were successful. Once again, the clouds obscured our view.

It was an amazing trip. Definitely something I have wanted to do for years. If I were to do it over, I’d wait and go later in the summer when it was warmer and the days are a bit shorter.

Until the next trip…

Alaska 2023: Day 9 College Fjord

Our last destination on the cruise was College Fjord. We had a lot of water to cover–first in the Gulf of Alaska and later in Prince William Sound–and it took twenty-four hours to make this leg of the trip.

The fjord was discovered in 1899 and the glaciers were named for Elite East Coast Colleges, hence the name “College Fjord”. Professors from Harvard and Amherst were both a part of the expedition and apparently took great delight in excluding Princeton when they were doling out the glacier names.

Alaska 2023: Day 8 Glacier Bay National Park

The day started early as we entered Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, picking up our park rangers on the way in. The weather was chilly with some clouds as we watched for wildlife in the park. Sea otters were plentiful, sometimes in groups numbering as many as twenty. We even were witness to a few whales as we spotted water spouts off in the distance. As we moved further into the bay, the clouds gave way to sunshine–a welcome sight after the previous days’ dreariness. The three glaciers deep in the park we observed were the Grand Pacific Glacier, the Margerie Glacier, and the Johns Hopkins Glacier.

a slowly moving mass or river of ice formed by the accumulation and compaction of snow on mountains or near the poles.

Dictionary.com

(of an iceberg or glacier) split and shed (a smaller mass of ice).

Dictionary.com

As a glacier makes its way down the mountain, it picks up rock and silt called glacier flour. The blue tinge to the ice and the turquoise color of the water at the base of the glacier is due to its highly compacted nature and the glacier flour. Only the blue wavelengths are reflected back for us to see. As the glacier makes its way down the mountain, sheets of ice break off in what is known as calving. We experienced three calvings of the Margerie Glacier during our visit to the park. According to our ship’s captain this is a rarity!

After our day at Glacier Bay, we headed out to the Gulf of Alaska to our final destination and day at sea.

Alaska 2023: Day 7 Skagway

Our day in Skagway started early, with us disembarking the ship just after 8 AM and heading to the train depot. We traveled the White Pass & Yukon Route twenty miles to the White Pass Summit turnaround just inside the British Columbia border. Along the way, we viewed numerous glacier fed waterfalls as we wound our way along the Skagway River. The White Pass actually runs a full sixty-seven miles, ending at Carcross in the Yukon Territory.

Gold Rush Cemetery
Obelisk marking the border between Canada and the United States.
Trail of ’98 marker. This identifies where the original trail from 1898 ran.

This is a picture of the Skagway River Phil took from the train on the way back down the mountain. The image on the left is the original he took with his iPhone 13. The right has been color enhanced on that same phone.

Upon our return to the depot, we explored downtown Skagway and had lunch at the Skagway Brewing Company. Stampeders of the past were commonly afflicted with scurvy, which is a vitamin C deficiency. This area is not conducive to growing fruits like oranges and lemons; however, spruce tips, which are abundantly available, is rich in vitamin C. The stampeders would brew the tips into a tea and later incorporated the extract into a beer. It has been said that a spruce tip ale has as much vitamin C in it as a glass of orange juice. After lunch and some last minute shopping, the wind picked up and we returned to the ship.

Alaska 2023: Day 6 Juneau

We arrived in Juneau at 8 AM to light rain and fog. Since our excursion wasn’t until the afternoon, Phil and I explored downtown Juneau and did some shopping. We also sat on our balcony where we spotted several bald eagles and a golden eagle who flew right past our room! Later in the day we would catch sight of this eagle perched at the pier in a rare photo opportunity.

At noon, the weather cleared and we headed to the Juneau Airport with our excursion group to prepare for our helicopter trip destined for the Mendenhall Glacier. We watched a safety video and donned glacier boots before take off. We were in flight about ten minutes before we landed on the glacier surface. We spent about twenty-five minutes on the glacier, learning various facts about glaciers from the Juneau glacier field. The glaciers range from 200 to 2000 feet deep. The glaciers carry down silt as they move down to sea level. The water that melts runs about a million gallons in twenty minutes. The entire experience was awe inspiring!

Glacier with Mendenhall Lake in background.
Running water on the glacier.
Mendenhall Lake

After returning to the pier, Phil and I opted to have a late lunch at Tracy’s King Crab Shack. We ordered the #1 Combo which consisted of a cup of crab chowder, 2 King Crab legs, 4 mini-crab cakes and a roll. When we were done, we were full and returned to the ship to recover.

As the sun set in the western sky, we departed the capital city of Juneau for our next destination.

Alaska 2023: Day 5 Ketchikan

We rolled into Ketchikan at 6 AM to a cool 50F and low clouds. The town is built into the mountainside along the coast. There are some houses that are not near an actual street and the only way to access is via stairs. Several flights of stairs. Those residents have to be very conscience of what they are buying at the store because they will need to pack everything up to their houses on foot. It reminds me a bit of Jerome or Bisbee in Arizona. Everything has to be shipped in by water or air as there are no roads that connect the town to the outside world. Cars must be brought in via barge or ferry from Seattle or Bellingham. Travelling between towns up and down the Southeast Coast is done via ferry. A trip to Juneau typically takes 21 hours by ferry. Ketchikan is located on the Revillagigedo Island and has a population of about 8000. The town’s economy is dependent on the fishing industry and tourism. On any given day, there may be up to 20,000 tourists visiting the town. Ketchikan is located in a temperate rain forest region and averages over 13 feet of rain per year.

The downtown area of Ketchikan has many tourist shops, jewelers and restaurants. It also boasts a large carving of a eagle symbolizing the thundering wings of the eagle as well as a statue entitled “The Rock”. The Rock represents all many hardworking individuals who helped to build the town. Totem poles are scattered throughout the downtown area as well as other artwork available for purchase.

Our excursion for the day was a boat tour provided by Lighthouse Excursions entitled “Lighthouse, Totems, and Eagles”. It lasted a couple hours and originated out of Ward Cove. From our cruise ship, we took a bus to Ward Cove and boarded the boat. As we navigated the area waters, we spotted approximately ten bald eagles. Points of interest included in the tour was the Totem Bight State Historical Park and the lighthouse on Guard Island. The lighthouse is about 12 miles from Ketchikan and was first put into service in 1924. After visiting the lighthouse, we circled back to Ward Cove along the coast of Gravina Island. Gravina Island sits to the west of Ketchikan and is home to the Ketchikan Airport. A ferry or other nautical vehicle is required to travel between the two islands.

We finished out brief stop with a little more shopping and lunch at The Alaska Fish House. Phil ordered the Alaska Sampler fish and chips which included one piece each of fried salmon, halibut and cod with coleslaw and fries. I opted for the salmon chowder which was quite filling. Then it was back to the ship for an early departure to our next destination.

Dinner was in the Pacific Moon Restaurant onboard the ship. Parmesan crusted Cod was the main course with cheesecake for dessert. We followed it up with a comedy show featuring Greg Schwem before turning in for the night. We are currently making our way through the Inside Passage, winding our way through the islands south of Sitka, AK.

Alaska 2023: Day 4 Adrift at Sea

The day started cool and foggy. We actually watched from our balcony as we sailed into a bank of fog! As the day progressed, the fog lifted but we were still socked in with clouds and limited visibility. My motion sickness reared its ugly head this morning as we moved into more open waters.

After breakfast at the buffet, we attended the enrichment presentation “Northern Lights” by Daryl Pedersen. Mr. Pedersen is a professional photographer who lives in Alaska and has been capturing the beauty of our 49th state for over 30 years. His photographs have appeared in various publications including National Geographic and include brilliant images of the much revered Northern Lights. He briefly explained how the phenomenon of the Aurora Borealis happens during his presentation.

While the rest of my group scurried off to attend other events on the ship, I stayed for a second presentation by the ship’s onboard naturalist, Sandra Schempp. “Discovering the Inhabitants of Alaska’s Costal Waters” was a quick tutorial on the various water animals that we might encounter as we cruise up the Inner Passage this week. A map depicting where the various species might be found was available in the gift shop and I took full advantage.

The lunch buffet featured Asian dishes. The sushi wasn’t all that great, but I was definitely in love with the maja blanca I found on the dessert counter. Maja blanca is a Filipino dessert made of coconut milk, cornstarch and sugar. For texture, corn kernels were added and it was soo good!

The afternoon was spent relaxing, with me taking a nap to stave off the nausea. Tonight was formal night we all dressed in our best and had dinner at Sabatini’s Italian Trattoria. Our meal was a five course meal which took three hours! It was all so delicious and we were well sated when it was over.

Antipasti: Fritto Misto alla Veneziana
light & crispy venetian-style fried shrimp, scallops and calamari, paired with pan-fried polenta and served with a spicy marinara

Zuppe e insalata: Insalata Mista
mixed greens, tomato, cucumber, fennel, pickled red onion, carrot, celery, radish, taggiasca black olives, dressed in extra-virgin olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar

Primi Piatti: Lobster Tortelloni
delicate wide pillows of lobster-filled pasta, simmered in a rich creamy lobster sauce

Secondi Piatti: Scallopine di Vitello al Marsala
veal tenderloin and sliced champignon mushrooms in marsala wine, presented with sautéed garlic spinach and creamy mashed potatoes

Dolci: Rocher
A blend of chocolate, pralines and hazelnut ice cream sealed in milk chocolate, surrounded by crushed candied hazelnuts. This tasty treat is from our premium Chocolate Journeys program, designed to showcase the expertise of our pastry chefs using our favorite ingredient – chocolate

As we finish the day, we are nearly to our first port of call at Ketchikan, Alaska. We are heading around Kiusta, British Columbia to our destination. Temperatures are around 50F and the seas are a little choppy. Good night!

Alaska 2023: Day 3 Anchors Away!

We started the day much like the previous one. Phil did a coffee run to Blenz and we did breakfast at The Basic. We finished up the last minute packing and caught an Uber to the cruise terminal. We managed to get checked in without too many issues. Of course, there was slight chaos getting our trip medallions when Phil and I got momentarily separated. There was also the slight delay when Joni was selected as the random person going through US Customs that needed extra scrutiny. We boarded the Princess Sapphire with no further incidents and found us a lounge to get our bearings before we disembarked.

After getting all the safety requirements out of the way, we found our staterooms and went in search of lunch on the Lido Deck. Phil and I opted for BLT Burgers and Fries and we tried out the ordering function on our apps. It works but took forever to get our order for dessert.

As our imminent departure approached at 4:30, we still did not have Phil’s suitcase. After a call to guest services, we made a trip to Deck 6 and found his bag sans tags! Somehow they were removed in the hustle and bustle getting on the boat. At least we didn’t lose it!

As we left Vancouver, we passed a large yellow pile of powder. The chemist immediately says, “Oh, look! A pile of sulfur.” Phil replies, “That’s not sulfur. They wouldn’t put it where it could get into the ocean.” Well, guess what? The chemist was correct. This is the Big Yellow Sulphur Pile.

After dinner at the buffet, we took in a comedy show with Jeff Burghart. He mainly tells husband/wife jokes and does impressions of various individuals including Jack Nicholson and Ozzy Osbourne. He did an especially long impression of Tom Jones, complete with song. It was good for a few laughs before we headed outside to see the sunset.

As we ended the day, we were approaching the small coastal town of Bloedel, British Columbia, on our trek to the Pacific Ocean.

Alaska 2023: Day 2 Vancouver!

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada skyline from Stanley Park.

We started our day at about 6:00 a.m. The sun was up, and Phil was up before me which is a rare occurrence. He offered to run down to the corner coffee shop and get us each a coffee which I wholeheartedly accepted. The medium roast brew from Blenz Coffee was definitely one I would try again.

As I mentioned yesterday, our hotel, Rosellen Suites at Stanley Park, is a little dated but charming nonetheless. The elevator has this dial that indicates which floor it is on and the door to get in or out on a floor is an honest to goodness door (note the door handle). There is an old fashioned telephone next to the reception office and apparently it works!

Our first stop of the morning was breakfast and we chose The Basic on Denman Street. Good sized portions and definitely good food. I’d eat there again if I lived here. I had The Brit–two sausages, two pieces of bacon, scrambled eggs, fried potatoes, baked beans and toast. I paired it up with a glass of cranberry juice. The baked beans were really good, not overly sweet.

Our purpose for the day was to hang out and see the sites in Vancouver before we started our cruise on Wednesday. Being so close to Stanley Park, seeing what it had to offer was a logical choice. The park is named for Lord Frederick Arthur Stanley, the 16th Earl of Derby. He was a member of the Conservative Party in the United Kingdom and was appointed the Governor General of Canada from 1888 to 1893. He was an avid sportsman–was one of the original inductees of the Hockey Hall of Fame and presented Canada with the Stanley Cup.

At the start of our exploration, was “A-Maze-ing Laughter”, a collection of 14 patinated cast-bronze figures created by Yue Minjun. Each animated figure appears twice in the collection.

We followed along the beachfront for a good distance before deciding to head to the Vancouver Aquarium. Along the way we enjoyed the Rhododendron Garden which was bursting with colorful blooms and majestic trees that towered high in the sky. Many had enormous trunks and were the result of multiple trees growing into one. The views of snow-capped mountains across the Lost Lagoon were equally breathtaking.

After a brief stop at the aquarium, we continued on another 0.7 km to see the totem poles on display. Our final stop was the Brockton Point Light Station, the most eastern point in Stanley Park. A square white tower with a red stripe, it was originally built in 1914 and was taken out of service in 2008.

Having walked nearly 5 miles, we finished our site seeing for the afternoon with a late lunch at Peaked Pies. The Australian restaurant specializes in a variety of pot pies that may be topped with a scoop of mashed potatoes, a scoop of mashed peas and brown gravy. I savored a chicken, mushroom and leek pie, but opted out of the mashed peas. Phil chose a variety with kangaroo meat! He said it did not taste like chicken.

After a few hours of rest, we opted for a simple dinner of pizza by the slice at Nat’s Pizza and a relaxing evening back at the hotel.

Tomorrow we are sea-bound!

Alaska 2023: Day 1 Wheels UP!

Today was the day! We started our great adventure in the north. Phil probably started it off best when he posted a YouTube link to Johnny Horton’s “North to Alaska” on his Facebook page.

Our group of five started the journey with brunch at Harlow’s Cafe in Tempe. The portions are huge and they serve breakfast all day.

Next stop…the airport! We reserved a spot in the East Economy Garage and it was easy peasy getting a spot and using the light rail to access Terminal 3. Checked our bags and Phil got stopped in TSA due to a 2″ pocket knife he didn’t know was in his backpack!

While waiting to board, the airline asked for passengers to check their carry on bags due to space constraints. Joni and Kristin said “why not?” They were able to move up in the boarding queue as a reward. The 3 hour flight was relatively uneventful, with just a little turbulence at the beginning and the end.

We arrived at the Vancouver airport without incident. The walk from the gate to customs was well over a mile long! Things were great until we got to baggage claim. The bag Joni checked at the gate didn’t show up and it had some essential toiletries and medication in it. oops! So they filed a claim and we grabbed a couple taxis to our hotel.

We’re staying at Rosellen Suites at Stanley Park. Very nice spacious suites with a small full kitchen and two bedrooms. The building is rather old with an ancient elevator that only holds 4 people with no luggage and no air conditioning! Otherwise it is quite comfortable and walking distance from a multitude of shops and restaurants on Denman Street. We had dinner at Gillaneh Grill House, which specializes in Persian cuisine. Phil and I split their Bone In Chicken Kabob and the Veggie Kabob which were fantastic! If we lived here, I’d likely eat there again.

Tomorrow will be a day of site seeing in Vancouver before we embark on our cruise on Wednesday.

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